When an independent publication stakes its claim in print, the choice of its cover star is everything. For the second issue of Unguis Oracle, titled TACTUS, the editorial direction went beyond standard commercial casting. The cover introduces Celine Dijkgraaf, the grandmother of the magazine’s Editor-in-Chief, Daniel Smedeman. She is photographed by Dion Bal, dressed in haute couture by Viktor & Rolf, and accompanied by Storm, a canine companion cast for the shoot. This decision challenges the industry’s usual obsession with youth, showcasing a deeply personal narrative of family, heritage, and style.
For Daniel Smedeman, the decision to feature Celine Dijkgraaf is a tribute to her enduring presence. She is described as a cornerstone of her family, a woman who raised five children and her grandchildren with profound care and a steady belief in their potential. Bringing her into the high-fashion editorial space is not a mere novelty. It is an intentional framing of mature grace, demonstrating that high fashion belongs to those with lived experience. The visual language of the cover places her at the center of a sophisticated dialogue on aging and representation.
The cover shoot combines meticulous styling by Jan Hurxkens and precise creative direction. Celine wears an intricate Viktor & Rolf couture piece, a choice that contrasts avant-garde design with the natural dignity of a matriarch. Photographer Dion Bal captures the scene with a sharp focus that highlights texture, form, and emotion. The presence of Storm, the dog featured alongside Celine, adds an unexpected element of playfulness to the editorial structure. Every contributor on the team, from makeup artist Laura Yard to hairstylist Magdalena Loza, worked to honor the subject’s authentic presence.
Unguis Oracle, which launched as a dedicated ‘paper on hands,’ explores nail culture, hand care, and tactile art. It approaches touch as a form of authorship, analyzing how we interact with the physical world. In an increasingly digital era, print magazines that focus on specific, tactile elements of human culture offer a grounding alternative. By highlighting hands and the stories they carry, the publication carves out a unique space in modern publishing. The second issue, TACTUS, expands on this philosophy by examining how touch connects generations.
Through this editorial, the publication touches on themes of lineage and identity. Celine’s hands, which Daniel Smedeman himself styled for the shoot, tell a story of labor, care, and guidance. This connection brings a human quality to the high-fashion layout. It proves that style is not merely about garments. Instead, it is about the history of the person wearing them. The visual presentation strips away the cold distance often found in couture photography, replacing it with warmth and respect.
By dressing a grandmother in Viktor & Rolf, the creative team shows that high-end garments are most compelling when worn by people with profound personal depth. This approach to luxury fashion emphasizes character over commercial trends. The editorial stands out because it avoids the typical tropes of elder-themed fashion shoots, which often lean into parody or extreme eccentricity. Instead, Celine is presented with quiet confidence and absolute composure.
The launch of the issue on July 4, 2026, at Hotel Grand Amour in Paris, marked a significant moment for the indie title. Edited by Daniel Smedeman with graphic design by Karen van de Kraats and Anne van Bokhoven, the magazine is finding its audience among print purists and design enthusiasts. The collaboration of creative minds in Amsterdam and Paris shows the growing strength of independent European fashion media. It reminds us that storytelling in fashion is richest when it originates from personal history.
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